![]() I love astrophotography time-lapses! They’re so cool looking and impressive. Also try a shot with your in-camera noise reduction on ( if your camera has it, yay GH5 lol) and see if that cleans up the image for you. ![]() ![]() Remember to light paint your foreground (if it isn’t illuminated already somehow) because you won’t have any other frames to mix it with later. If you don’t want to stack your images in post production - and let’s be honest, it is time consuming - then aim to get the best out of one single frame. Light paint the foreground, take a few test shots to make sure you’ve got everything how you want it before committing. Your image will be very boring indeed if you don’t have a well lit, well composed foreground. Once you’ve found the Milky Way it can be so tempting to just start shooting away, but remember this is photography, and composition still applies. It will preserve your night vision.įor composition, remember to keep an eye on the foreground. If you’re lucky enough to have a camera with a night vision red mode ( like the GH5 woo!) make use of it. Put a 2 second timer on, or use an intervalometer, to make sure your camera is still before the exposure begins. Shoot in manual focus, using focus peaking to make sure your stars are in focus. Again, keep every setting the same as you take these. Sounds mad, I know, but this will help the software differentiate between which dots are stars and which ones are noise. Take two or more photos with your lens cap on. Make sure you light paint (use your phone light if you don’t have another) the foreground in at least one of the images. ![]() I’ll go into the exact editing methods in the second part of this article (how to edit astrophotography) but we have to know how to get the raw images before we can worry about editing them. This involves taking 10 or more identical exposures and stacking them in editing software. The way that most astrophotographers edit their images is by photo stacking. To Stack Or Not To Stack? (that is the question) So now we have the lens choices and camera settings sorted. It’s a little slower, possibly a bit less sharp, but it’s a TON cheaper.įor full frame, get yourself a fast wide prime lens and go wild! If you’re like me, and you only wish to shoot astrophotography occasionally, I’d recommend the 7artisans 7.5mm f2.8. It is wide, fast, and pretty sharp, so it ticks all of the boxes. The Golden standard in micro four thirds astrophotography seems to be the Laowa 7.5mm f2.0. The Best Lens Choices for Astrophotography For full frame cameras you can probably go much higher. Personally with micro four thirds equipment I like to stay around ISO 5000 and no higher. This part can take a bit of trial and error. Too high and you’ll end up with a noisy mess, but too low, and you won’t get enough information in your images. So get your lens wide open and focus to infinity.įor ISO, again, go as high as you feel comfortable. Astrophotography is all about getting as much light into your sensor as possible. I’d recommend at least f2.8 (with micro four thirds at least). Get the fastest aperture your budget allows. Not only did he win it overall, but Mark also won the Earth and Space category, and the People and Space category which had never been done before in the competition's history.Aperture for astrophotography: the faster the better In 2013, Mark won the prestigious Astronomy Photographer of the Year. Marks short film, ‘Full Moon Silhouettes‘ also gained him international acclaim after going viral online, and has been broadcast all over the world by the likes of CNN, The BBC, NASA and various other main stream media. His love of the New Zealand landscape is a big part of the inspiration for his photography.Īstrophotography is Mark’s passion, and this has led to international success with Mark being short-listed in the Astronomy Photographer of the Year every year from 2012 onwards, a finalist in the 2012 World Open of Photography, and 4th place in the 2014 International Earth and Sky Photo Competition, as well as having images published internationally in various books and magazines. He has worked on many high profile and Oscar award winning feature films. Mark Gee is an award winning photographer, time-lapse filmmaker & digital visual effects supervisor based in Wellington, New Zealand.
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